mercredi 15 mai 2019

Isola d`Ischia - Porto Portici

From Gaeta we (motor)sailed late morning direction Naples with the wind in the nose. After a while the wind turned slightly with a nice breeze and a calm sea so we rolled out all the sails and calmly sailed at 4,5Kn direction Vesuvio. The wind kept on turning westward and then dropped.
Back on engine and course to Isola d`Ischia, Porto d`Ischia. Late afternoon we reached the entrance of the port with ferries going in and out. After anouncing via VHF we got ok and slipped through the very narrow entrance passage, making sure there was no ferry making its way out.
A helping hand waved us to a pontoon, we moored next to a French couple and facing another French boat, actually the two mast which was anchored not far from us at the rock and roll mooring.
An older couple going on their way to Greece and having stayed in the port for the second day at 80€ per day. The coming and going of the ferries made such a turbulence that we were hard hitting our neighbor. The pulling on the pontoon was so harsh that during the night one of the fairleads was torn to pieces. Went to the office doing the paperwork and negociated the price down to 44€ including tax. Seems like the more south you go the higher the porting price and the lower the quality. Go figure. We had a late pizza, advertised as the original Napoli pizza, but no better than in Cap Ferrat.
All night banging of the boat, noise and hurendous pollution of the ferries, in the morning a quick shopping and out we went, carefully checking the ferry movements to be able to slip out.

A very tricky port entrance, for one boat only!






Route to Ischia. We never saw the dolphins, they appeared on the photo.






































We motored around the island to the southern part st Angelo, which has a small port surrounded with a ton of ghastly hotels planted on and over the beach. The South part of the island however had less contruction and looked wilder. We anchored and had some lunch, the breeze started and off we went to Ercolano / porto Portici.




The wind came up blowing right on the nose from NE, so all on motor for 25 Nm. Along the way it became 6Bf with alternating harsh waves. The ship was banging along, with spray and sometimes whole waves coming over. Every big wave slowed us from 4Kn to 1Kn, so it was crazy, tedious, slow and endless. There was no real issue to go elsewhere, bad planning. Finally after 5 hours we reached Porto Portici, which was not really a port; a large expanse with fishing trawlers moored along 2 quays and surrounded by derelict buildings, which some time ago were to be rebuild, but stopped because of probably lack of money.
We finally attached at the end of a quay in murky oil with also water. However nothing to pay...
Later in the evening a very large fishing trawler arrived and really squeezed in the gap between our boat and a trawler behind. Actually leaving one meter at each end! They left in the morning but we never noticed. (Our snoring louder than their diesel engines?)
At 9 we left direction  Santa Lucia port in Napoli old town and managed to get a small place (at 100€ night!) (BTW Capri port for us 160€ and for a 20m boat 3000€ a night).

Porto Porticio was really not a port. The big trawler moored just behind us with 1m to spare.

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